cabinetmkr39
DavidG / CCA Member
dosage Calculator
http://www.geocities.ws/chefkeithallen/Levamisole.html
http://www.geocities.ws/chefkeithallen/Levamisole.html
Cichlids with sunken in stomachs
- Thread starter Malawimania
- Start date
Malawimania
Members
cabinetmkr39
DavidG / CCA Member
I'm just trying to help.... your very welcome
Malawimania
Members
Treatment starts tomorrow morning with levamisole hydrochloride. I will post my results here after treatment has been completed.
-Steve
-Steve
JLW
CCA Members
I see this A LOT with farmed African cichlids, as well as in some other fishes (Sawba Rasboras, for example). I've developed a good treatment regiment which seems to work, and I often prophylactically treat any problem fish. Here is the treatment regiment I've developed, which works fairly well:
Move the effected fish to a bare bottom tank (OR start them there if they're incoming fish).
Dose with Safeguard, a commercial dewormer for goats. You can buy this on Amazon.Com for about $20, or your local Tractor Supply. Please note, you are using this product for an "off label" purpose, and while I have had success using this method, I claim no responsibility for any negative results that may occur. Technically, you are "misusing" this product, and by doing so, accept all liabilities. The active ingredient in this is fenbendazole.
I dose at approximately one drop per gallon. 1 mL = 10 drops.
Feed the fish.
Keep an eye on the tank over the next 6-8 hours, the fish will "shed" worms. These worms may still be alive, and most certainly do carry a load of eggs. The fish will attempt to eat the dead worms -- syphon regularly to avoid this. The eggs within the worms are viable, and the worms may only be mostly dead. There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive. With all dead, well, with all dead there's usually only one thing you can do.... but mostly dead means they can reinfect your fish.
A few people have experimented with putting a layer of egg crate or similar on the bottom of the tank to prevent the fish from getting to the worms.
Keep them here for 48 hours. Repeat the treatment in 7-10 days, and again in 7-10 more days. Do not treat too frequently. This SHOULD clear the worms out of them, if they don't eat them and reinfect themselves.
J
Move the effected fish to a bare bottom tank (OR start them there if they're incoming fish).
Dose with Safeguard, a commercial dewormer for goats. You can buy this on Amazon.Com for about $20, or your local Tractor Supply. Please note, you are using this product for an "off label" purpose, and while I have had success using this method, I claim no responsibility for any negative results that may occur. Technically, you are "misusing" this product, and by doing so, accept all liabilities. The active ingredient in this is fenbendazole.
I dose at approximately one drop per gallon. 1 mL = 10 drops.
Feed the fish.
Keep an eye on the tank over the next 6-8 hours, the fish will "shed" worms. These worms may still be alive, and most certainly do carry a load of eggs. The fish will attempt to eat the dead worms -- syphon regularly to avoid this. The eggs within the worms are viable, and the worms may only be mostly dead. There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive. With all dead, well, with all dead there's usually only one thing you can do.... but mostly dead means they can reinfect your fish.
A few people have experimented with putting a layer of egg crate or similar on the bottom of the tank to prevent the fish from getting to the worms.
Keep them here for 48 hours. Repeat the treatment in 7-10 days, and again in 7-10 more days. Do not treat too frequently. This SHOULD clear the worms out of them, if they don't eat them and reinfect themselves.
J
Malawimania
Members
I see this A LOT with farmed African cichlids, as well as in some other fishes (Sawba Rasboras, for example). I've developed a good treatment regiment which seems to work, and I often prophylactically treat any problem fish. Here is the treatment regiment I've developed, which works fairly well:
Move the effected fish to a bare bottom tank (OR start them there if they're incoming fish).
Dose with Safeguard, a commercial dewormer for goats. You can buy this on Amazon.Com for about $20, or your local Tractor Supply. Please note, you are using this product for an "off label" purpose, and while I have had success using this method, I claim no responsibility for any negative results that may occur. Technically, you are "misusing" this product, and by doing so, accept all liabilities. The active ingredient in this is fenbendazole.
I dose at approximately one drop per gallon. 1 mL = 10 drops.
Feed the fish.
Keep an eye on the tank over the next 6-8 hours, the fish will "shed" worms. These worms may still be alive, and most certainly do carry a load of eggs. The fish will attempt to eat the dead worms -- syphon regularly to avoid this. The eggs within the worms are viable, and the worms may only be mostly dead. There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive. With all dead, well, with all dead there's usually only one thing you can do.... but mostly dead means they can reinfect your fish.
A few people have experimented with putting a layer of egg crate or similar on the bottom of the tank to prevent the fish from getting to the worms.
Keep them here for 48 hours. Repeat the treatment in 7-10 days, and again in 7-10 more days. Do not treat too frequently. This SHOULD clear the worms out of them, if they don't eat them and reinfect themselves.
J
I appreciate the info the bare bottom tank is a great idea! Were you able to see your treated fish recover they're stomachs from concaved to normal again?
-Steve
DiscusnAfricans
Past President
Sunken stomachs is probably from the worms stealing nutrients from the fish. Probably have to get rid of the infection, then get them eating again properly and it should return to normal.
YSS
Members
Have you confirmed the worms you found in your tank are the internal worms that you are trying to treat for? Tapeworms, ringworms, and other internal worms are not clear small worms like the ones you said you found in your tank. Your diagnois may not be correct and you may be treating for wrong things. If you read the article that David posted, you will see sunken stomach is not one of the symptoms of the internal worms.
Malawimania
Members
Here's what I do know. I've tried treating with many different kinds of medications thus far with not much success. I'm no veterinarian, so I can only try treatment plans for symptoms my fish are having, and for what I've visually seen in my tank(clear stool and clear worms). My original post shows many of the treatments I've tried. I'm sure some of the medications I've tried haven't been effective because I don't know the exact diagnosis, but at least I can say I'm trying treatment plans which pertain to the symptoms my fish are having. Hopefully at some point I can narrow it down to which treatment is most effective and cure my issue.
-Steve
