Sponge Filter Sizing Question

[Tony]

Hi all,

Tired of paying too much for sponge filters at the LFS in Rockville, so I'm about to order some sponge filters from Jehmco and need some sizing advice. Which of these sponges (H-0 to H-V) would you use for 5g, 10g and 20L?

I have two 10s and a 20L set up right now, using the H-I filters now, and am not quite sure they are sized right...

http://www.jehmco.com/html/hydro-sponge_filters.html


Thanks in advance,
Tony

 

[mab]

Just ask John for correct sizes when you call to place the order!!!

 

[Pat Kelly]

I use all of them. I do have to cut the tubes on the taller ones to make them fit in the tank.
I like the H 0 for my 2.5 gallon tanks. small enough to fit and big enough to do the job.

 

[TheWire]

Hi Tony

Are you be ordering soon from Jehmco? I am interested of getting like 2 sponge filters...let me know PM me

 

[Tony]

Awesome. Thanks so much for the advice, y'all. I actually called up and spoke with Jeanne. She recommended the H3 for a 20L, an an H1-H2 for the 10g and the H0 for the 5g.

Sent ya a PM wire.

Thanks again,
Tony

 

[dogofwar]

I use the biggest ones that fit comfortably in the tank. But (of course) they're not show tanks

I also recommend coupling a box filter (mechanical) with a sponge (biological).

Matt

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

I also recommend coupling a box filter (mechanical) with a sponge (biological).

Matt

So is chemical filtration unnecessary, or just a supplement if you don't keep up on water cahnges?

 

[TheWire]

So is chemical filtration unnecessary, or just a supplement if you don't keep up on water cahnges?

i never use any chemical filtration (carbon) in any of my tank unless I am treating it chemically which is pretty rare.....

carbon filter is a waste of money IMHO if you not using any chemical treatment as carbon needed to be replace every 2-3 months anyway.

Carbon does not remove nitrates ....so water changes are necessary

 

[dogofwar]

So is chemical filtration unnecessary, or just a supplement if you don't keep up on water cahnges?

Box filters give you the flexibility of chemical filtration. I use a chunk of polyfilter in heavily stocked tanks and occasionally use carbon to remove mede, odor, or tannins

Wire is correct - it's only useful for a short time. I try to change the fluff in my boxes every couple of weeks...and do water changes weekly

Matt

Posted via mobile.capitalcichlids.org

 

[TheWire]

Box filters give you the flexibility of chemical filtration. I use a chunk of polyfilter in heavily stocked tanks and occasionally use carbon to remove mede, odor, or tannins

Wire is correct - it's only useful for a short time. I try to change the fluff in my boxes every couple of weeks...and do water changes weekly

Matt

Posted via mobile.capitalcichlids.org

Yes, also if you smell your tank area like sulfur or poop....it's good idea to use the carbon :lol:

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

Ok, I know you still have to do regular water changes, I just wasn't sure if chemical filtration gave an excuse to wait longer between them. I use bio/chem/mechan on all my tanks but would love to simplify the systems. What about the "ammonia chips"? Are they really effective at removing ammonia? I use those in conjunction with carbon on all my tanks, just wanted to make sure I'm not spending or wasting money unnecessarily.

 

[dogofwar]

Ok, I know you still have to do regular water changes, I just wasn't sure if chemical filtration gave an excuse to wait longer between them. I use bio/chem/mechan on all my tanks but would love to simplify the systems. What about the "ammonia chips"? Are they really effective at removing ammonia? I use those in conjunction with carbon on all my tanks, just wanted to make sure I'm not spending or wasting money unnecessarily.

I don't use ammo chips or the like... But they can't hurt

The secret to happy fish is water changes

Also not having gunk in the tank or filters, which is why I use just a little sand or gravel and change filter fluff a lot

Posted via mobile.capitalcichlids.org

 

[TheWire]

I think you should just drop the chemical filtration altogether unless you treated the tank with med or smell bad...other than that, you just use ceramic/bioballs/sponge and filter fiber floss (1 yard cost about $3). You can replaced the floss every now and then, and just rinse the other stuffs with tank water when you do WC.

 

[DiscusnAfricans]

Ok, thanks guys. I'm used to following the "traditional" methods and I've learned from a lot of members that most of those methods aren't necessary or relevant. So change the water and keep the tank clean with good bio/mechanical filtration and you're good to go.

 

[Tony]

I don't use ammo chips or the like... But they can't hurt

The secret to happy fish is water changes

Also not having gunk in the tank or filters, which is why I use just a little sand or gravel and change filter fluff a lot

Posted via mobile.capitalcichlids.org

I like the idea of using just a bit of sand or gravel in my breeder setups (I like a lot of gravel in my show tanks for nitrogen fixing), but doesn't it spook the fish a bit? It sure would be easier to suck out poop with little to no gravel...

A lot of SPS reefers run a bare-bottom method to get nitrates super-low. This allows for sucking out every bit of waste that falls to the floor and relies on only the live rock for anaerobic filtration as you've gotten rid of any substrate (that typically houses anaerobics). In the cichild's case, I guess you'd have the sponge in it's place.

Either way, without a significant thickness of gravel (2" or so), anaerobic bacteria wouldn't live in a thin scattering.

With a fresh supply of water constantly being drawn through the sponge, how does the last step of the nitrogen cycle occur (nitrates to nitrogen gas)? Or does it not (and we rely more heavily on water changes to remove nitrates)?

Sorry for the rambling... just sort of working this out in my head as I type this post.

 

[TheWire]

I like the idea of using just a bit of sand or gravel in my breeder setups (I like a lot of gravel in my show tanks for nitrogen fixing), but doesn't it spook the fish a bit? It sure would be easier to suck out poop with little to no gravel...

A lot of SPS reefers run a bare-bottom method to get nitrates super-low. This allows for sucking out every bit of waste that falls to the floor and relies on only the live rock for anaerobic filtration as you've gotten rid of any substrate (that typically houses anaerobics). In the cichild's case, I guess you'd have the sponge in it's place.

Either way, without a significant thickness of gravel (2" or so), anaerobic bacteria wouldn't live in a thin scattering.

With a fresh supply of water constantly being drawn through the sponge, how does the last step of the nitrogen cycle occur (nitrates to nitrogen gas)? Or does it not (and we rely more heavily on water changes to remove nitrates)?

Sorry for the rambling... just sort of working this out in my head as I type this post.

You can't remove of nitrate with actually water change or have enough plants to absorbs the nitrate

fish>ammonia>nitrite>nitrate to Water CHange/Plants

 

[msjinkzd]

have you looked at www.kenfish.com for pricing?