Nitrite Spike!

Klown

Members
So earlier in the week (about 4 days ago) I checked my levels in my 55gal cichlid tank. The Nitrites were in the 9.0-10.0ppm range and the Nitrates were around the 40ppm range... I then tested the Ammonia and it was between .25-.50ppm. I did a 50% water change, changed 1 of the 2 cartiges in my HOB filter, and changed some of the media in my Fluval 406. In the Fluval 406 I've got bio media, carbon, ammon detox, and nitrite nutralizer. I waited 3 days and got nothing... No change. I then added Prime solution and followed the directions for extemely ellivated levels (5x the normal dosage). I still got no change after 24 hours. Scared that this was going to harm my fish, I moved them into my 75 gal aquarium that I don't believe was fully cycled yet and was 5 degrees colder due to not having a heater, and the filtration system is to small for the tank (have to upgrade the tower size in my DIY wet/dry). So I took the HOB filter from the 55gal, emptied it out and put in 1 new cartrige (keeping the one I added 3 days earlier). I also put the heater from the 55gal into the sump on full blast to help heat the water faster. I'm worried the fish are going to have a real hard time. All the levels in the 75 gal checked out just fine prior to me adding the fish.
What could cause that spike so quickly? everything was great last week... also, how can I fix the problem? Do i need to empty all water and start all over? where do I go from here?
 

ezrk

Members
Sounds like the tank isn't really cycled.

I wouldn't change filter cartridges at all at this point, you are removing the beneficial bacteria that you are trying to grow.

When cycling tanks I have found that you tend to quickly get spikes of Nitrites so that isn't surprising that it happened quickly.

I think your only real choice at this point is a lot of water changes and minimal feeding. Personally, I would either find some existing cycled filter material or get some Dr. Tims to try and accelerate the cycling process.
 

Tony

Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
All those added parts in your canister are unnecessary imo. Most folks here stick with mechanical and biological filtration only... ammonia and nitrite detoxifiers may be messing with your cycle. Pull all that stuff out.
 
High levels of nitrite are deadly to your fish. Much more so than ammonia and certainly much more so than nitrates. Nitrite-eating bacterial also reproduces much more slowly so your nitrite hangs around longer than your ammonia. I've had nitrite spikes in fully cycled tanks. I did not find the cause but it was either: water not fully chlorinated killed the bacterial culture or nitrite was released from too vigorous substrate cleaning.

To try and save your fish:

1. Get bacterial culture from someone -- a used sponge filter or Dr. Tim's (available from Congressional; not sure who else carries it.)
2. Do water changes with heavy use of Prime. But if you're adding Dr. Tim's you have to stop the changes or you're just removing what you just added.
3. Stop feeding
4. Remove some fish to another tank to reduce load, if possible
5. Add lots of oxygen as nitrite impedes the fish's ability to breath. lower the water level to get lots of splash and/or add an air stone or sponge filter.

good luck.
 

ezrk

Members
FWIW, Dr. Tim does not recommend heavy Prime doses to solve this problem. It is his belief that such large doses hurts the bacteria colonies development (normal doses to dechlor are fine, just not the quintuple doses). I believe he feels this is true regardless of whether or not you use his bacteria.

If it were my tank...I would get some Dr Tims, do a big water change, then add the Dr. Tims wait 48 hours then do changes as needed being careful not to vacuum the gravel. The bacteria won't stay in the water column for long and as long as you have something for it to colonize after a day or two it should all be living on the filter, rocks, wood, substrate, etc.
 
I suggested heavy use of Prime to ensure full dechlorination (given my previous issues) not necessarily to lower nitrite (which you can do successfully with multiple water changes)
 
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