Raise tank temp to 90º and maintain for 72 hours. That's it. You're done, salt and meds aren't necessary.
Extra aeration is however an excellent suggestion/adjunct as water holds progressively less dissolved oxygen as it gets warmer. Generally OK to heat up most fish species for brief periods but you don't want to additionally stress them by making it hard for them to breathe. You can check on the web for species-specific tolerances to heat. If you have species that are intolerant of 90 degrees warm them up to whatever they can tolerate and supplement with meds/salt. It will take longer to treat this way although I found that malachite green works really really well (some bottom feeders and tetras don't care for it) and it's infinitely cheaper than any and all off the shelf meds save for salt.
Luck.
It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM, pers. comm.), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984).]
A little less conjecture and bit more research might be in order. Most cichlids don't have a problem with 90º. Ich life cycle is 7 days at 77º F, 4 days at 80º, etc. One can of course keep tanks overheated for 3 weeks, but that's twice as long as required.
Upon reflection I think there might be a good case for running the temp up to 90º for 24 hours (especially if it's a case of serious infection) just to kill existing infestations and then dropping it to 86º for 7-10 days to wipe out any any new releases that might arise from cysts still residing in the tank. I'm a big fan of one-step treatments and my only actual experience with ich resulted in a single dose of malachite green and 48 hours at 90º on a tank that included discus, tetras and Corydoras sterbai. Didn't lose a fish and it never came back.
Each to thine own...
There are multiple phases of ich. Better to kill the tomites in the tank than for them to remain dormant...and infect fish when you reduce the temp in the tank.
Almost all tropical fish are fine at 90 degrees, provided that there is adequet aeration...
Matt
So if it stops reproducing at 86* and doesn't infect new fish as 85*. Why go to 90* ? There is no need to. I had always thought that 90* was supreme but my research is telling me 86*. So you are right in that you need to research more articles.
You think so? Twelve posts and I'm already bored - that's good for 2nd place on my all-time list. Parroting what you think you read on the internet isn't research - I at least provided three citations (none of which apparently made any impression), whereas all you've done is provide unsubstantiated comments about what you seem not to understand to pretend that you do. Great start that, but obtuse (be it feigned or genuine) just isn't my thing, so........ Shazzam! - in the microcosm of my computer's internet realm you just became invisible.
Isn't technology wonderful?