Future cichlid tank

[Thanatos]

Hey all, I am new to the forum. I have been keeping new world cichlids for close to 10 years now and want to move into old world cichlids. I am working on a custom build 30"L x 36"W x 48"D tank that will be filled to 36" for a total of approximately 200 gallons. I want to keep a venustus cichlid for sure and was looking for advice on what would stock well with that. This tank is in the planning phase right now, so most everything can be modified. I have done research and have found only a few fish that work with venustus. Livingstone, yellow benga, red empress, sunshine peacock, and moori are what I have found. Are there any other options I should be considering.

My intention is to run a constant water change drip of 20% weekly change, as well as a 55 gallon or larger sump filtration set up. This will go along with any maintenance water changes I may need to do.

Let me know your opinions or any advice you may have.

 

[Fmat24]

The venustus that I have has actually mixed really well with the other peacocks, haps and mbunas that I have in the tank. He's actually the largest fish in the tank currently. I was a little hesitant when I got him b/c he is bigger than everyone else in the tank but he actually has a very mild temperament. I got him along with a VC10 at the same time and incorporated them both into the tank at the same time. They are inseparable, always swimming together.

 

[Acara19]

Venustus is known from 3 localities, being luwala reef, zimbabwe rock, and senga bay. I personally would stick to luwala reef as it has more variety (imo) than zimbabwe rock, and has more hobby available species than senga bay. While most of the time species are completely fine with "unfamiliars", for the greatest success and peace of mind, the easiest course of action is to just keep them with species they evolved to coexist with (I know... venustus is a predatory species but as long as the tank mates are too big to ambush and eat I think they'll be fine).

In luwala reef, some hobby-available species they share space with are:
Aulonocara maylandi (sulfurhead peacock)
Aulonocara stuartgranti (red shoulder variety)
Sciaenochromis fryeri (electric blue cichlid)
Metriaclima zebra (zebra mbuna)
Labeotropheus fuelleborni
Protomelas taeniolatus (red empress)
Protomelas spilonotus
Copadichromis borleyi

 

[Thanatos]

Venustus is known from 3 localities, being luwala reef, zimbabwe rock, and senga bay. I personally would stick to luwala reef as it has more variety (imo) than zimbabwe rock, and has more hobby available species than senga bay. While most of the time species are completely fine with "unfamiliars", for the greatest success and peace of mind, the easiest course of action is to just keep them with species they evolved to coexist with (I know... venustus is a predatory species but as long as the tank mates are too big to ambush and eat I think they'll be fine).

In luwala reef, some hobby-available species they share space with are:
Aulonocara maylandi (sulfurhead peacock)
Aulonocara stuartgranti (red shoulder variety)
Sciaenochromis fryeri (electric blue cichlid)
Metriaclima zebra (zebra mbuna)
Labeotropheus fuelleborni
Protomelas taeniolatus (red empress)
Protomelas spilonotus
Copadichromis borleyi

You have the zebra mbuna listed there but I have heard that diets differ, mbunas being vegetarian and haps carnivores. Will this cause a problem with them being together?

 

[Acara19]

You have the zebra mbuna listed there but I have heard that diets differ, mbunas being vegetarian and haps carnivores. Will this cause a problem with them being together?

It's less of the protein vs vegetable matter and more of temperature + fat content/origin, fish fat will cause issues with mbuna and higher temps make anything more prone to bloat. Fattier foods will cause issues, but a good middle ground is bug bites as the protein/fat comes from bugs and is pretty safe for things sensitive to fat in their diets. Either that or the simple solution being to have the mbuna food sink and the hap diet float, or have different sizes where the mbuna can't eat the hap diet

 

[Fmat24]

It's less of the protein vs vegetable matter and more of temperature + fat content/origin, fish fat will cause issues with mbuna and higher temps make anything more prone to bloat. Fattier foods will cause issues, but a good middle ground is bug bites as the protein/fat comes from bugs and is pretty safe for things sensitive to fat in their diets. Either that or the simple solution being to have the mbuna food sink and the hap diet float, or have different sizes where the mbuna can't eat the hap diet

What’s your experience been with the bug bites? I have yet to try them. Any issues at all?

 

[Acara19]

What’s your experience been with the bug bites? I have yet to try them. Any issues at all?

No, I had no issues feeding them to mbuna, peacocks, or fryeri. I used bug bites for about 4 years before switching to sera just because of the volume of food I needed for how many fish I have. Sera is very fish fatty however, but just in time as I offloaded all my rift lakes. I have a friend who still feeds his mbuna bug bites along with spirulina flakes and spirulina mysis shrimp. You could also throw in the spirulina flakes as predatory fish seem to hate the taste.

 

[Thanatos]

Thanks for the input everyone, I will definitely consider all of this in my build. Acara you said temperature is more important i know the range is 75-82°F for mbuna and most keep at roughly 77. Is this what you kept yourself at to prevent issues or did you go a little lower?

 

[Acara19]

Thanks for the input everyone, I will definitely consider all of this in my build. Acara you said temperature is more important i know the range is 75-82°F for mbuna and most keep at roughly 77. Is this what you kept yourself at to prevent issues or did you go a little lower?

That's what I'd do, most of my tanks don't have heaters altogether. MOST fish are fine/do better at the lower end of their temp ranges or at the very least appreciate seasonal drops in temp

 

[Thanatos]

That's what I'd do, most of my tanks don't have heaters altogether. MOST fish are fine/do better at the lower end of their temp ranges or at the very least appreciate seasonal drops in temp

Ok thanks I'll need a heater still just because I'm in a colder climate but I can certainly set to the lower end