Feeding to Promote Breeding

AquaStudent

AquaStudent

CCA Members
I'd really love to get my African Cichlids to breed but haven't yet had any success. I have colonies of M. elongatus and Yellow Labs. The elongatus are still young but the labs should be getting to breeding size soon. I have a few of them that are reaching the 3.5" mark (or larger).

Their current diet consists of varying between New Era Cichlid Green Pellets, New Life Spectrum Cichlid Pellets, YFS Soft Spirulina, YFS Green Supreme, and the occational Ken's Cichlid Flakes and San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Emerald Entree. There's a lot of variety in there but I'm curious what others use and have had success with.

For my Apistos I was able to get them to breed in my 29g by feeding a staple of YFS Cichlid Cravers, NLS Cichlid, and occationally Ken's Golden Pearls, Ken's Earthworm Flake, and live Blackworms (definitely a booster). I haven't yet been able to get them to spawn in their own 10g but I'm thinking the pond snail buddies could be doing something about that.
 
T

toddnbecka

Members
I feed all my fish NLS Cichlid or Grow pellets (depending on size) and Ken's premium veggie and spirulina flakes. Occasionally canned green beans and excess duckweed from a couple non-cichlid tanks. Everything but my pair of super red severums have spawned on that diet, I suspect the sev's just aren't fertile. Never seen any indication of breeding behavior like claiming/cleaning a spot, but they're clearly a male/female pair and always hang out together. Malawi mbuna, peacocks, Victorian Hap's, Tanganykian featherfins, shellies, etc. SA and CA cichlids of various species, even the Synodontis multi's and bristlenose pleco's.
 
chriscoli

chriscoli

Administrator
A diverse diet with live food if you can. I don't feed my adult Mbuna any of my worms....too soft and squishy, they'll get bloat.

Most of my fish get NLS a few times a week, the vegetarians get a good Spirulina-based flake the rest of the week. Everyone (except fry)gets fasted 1to 2days a week.

I've found that not all of my Mbuna breed early. I think sometimes we take it for granted that so many of them do....especially if you've also kept Vics. For example, I have had my Metriaclima glaucos for 2 years or so and didn't have a single spawning (that I noticed) and then a few months ago, it was like a switch was flipped....suddenly, multiple females holding and repeatedly holding. I think the group just had to mature.

Additionally, Mbuna will tend to cycle through more productive phases, then rest for a bit. My Mainganos do this.....they'll produce more fry than I can possibly keep for a few months.....multiple females all holding and then holding again......and then no new spawning so for months at a time.
 
verbal

verbal

CCA Members
Your feeding program sounds good. What is your water change schedule? What is your temp?

For the Apistos are you seeing the black/yellow coloration on the female? It might be she is spawning where you don't expect.

AquaStudent said:
I'd really love to get my African Cichlids to breed but haven't yet had any success. I have colonies of M. elongatus and Yellow Labs. The elongatus are still young but the labs should be getting to breeding size soon. I have a few of them that are reaching the 3.5" mark (or larger).

Their current diet consists of varying between New Era Cichlid Green Pellets, New Life Spectrum Cichlid Pellets, YFS Soft Spirulina, YFS Green Supreme, and the occational Ken's Cichlid Flakes and San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Emerald Entree. There's a lot of variety in there but I'm curious what others use and have had success with.

For my Apistos I was able to get them to breed in my 29g by feeding a staple of YFS Cichlid Cravers, NLS Cichlid, and occationally Ken's Golden Pearls, Ken's Earthworm Flake, and live Blackworms (definitely a booster). I haven't yet been able to get them to spawn in their own 10g but I'm thinking the pond snail buddies could be doing something about that.
Click to expand...
 
AquaStudent

AquaStudent

CCA Members
verbal said:
Your feeding program sounds good. What is your water change schedule? What is your temp?

For the Apistos are you seeing the black/yellow coloration on the female? It might be she is spawning where you don't expect.
Click to expand...

I do weekly water changes of 65-85% on the AC tank. The planted tank gets closer to 25%. The Apisto growout tank is about 50-75% (closer to 50). Tank temps are about 78 deg.

Most of the AC's haven't broken a year in age but I wanted to be sure they were on the right track.

I have seen the black and yellow pattern on the female apisto. I just haven't seen any fry. When the pair was in the larger community tank I saw them herding and protecting the fry (and chasing the other tankmates) but I haven't seen it yet in the 10g. I have my first final exam in a few hours and so I'll be able to clean out all the pond snails soon.
 
verbal

verbal

CCA Members
I am surprised you aren't getting spawning from your African Cichlids - the yellow labs especially. Maybe your ratio is way off? Although as Christine said mbuna can spawn in spurts - vs. peacock groups which tend to be pretty consistent once they get going.

Removing the snails should help with the apistos. One option might be to try separating the male and female and get her conditioned and then introduce the male.
 
AquaStudent

AquaStudent

CCA Members
verbal said:
One option might be to try separating the male and female and get her conditioned and then introduce the male.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. I'll try moving the male back to the main tank, getting heavy on snail removal, plump up the girl, and then reintroduce in the "breeding tank".

I also picked up some peat moss. I'm going to try softening the water since I don't have an RODI kit or a reliable way to get rainwater in my apartment. If only I had a house.

I'm not sure what's going on with the labs. I do see some aggression and circle fighting every so often but nothing all that much. I also have 7-8 of them so the odds of them being all males seems low and I haven't seen any one fish being chased. They are still small and perhaps as they grow I'll be able to tell the difference.

I have never tried venting but that may be something to experiment with once finals are done.
 
chriscoli

chriscoli

Administrator
You may be on to something about your Yellow Lab gender ratio. I had a group of Rusties that ended up being 5M, 1F. They took forever to spawn (c'mon...I mean, they're Rusties, right???) because the males spent all of their time chasing and posturing in front of each other. The one female just hung out by herself....she wasn't harassed or anything....just alone.

The other thing to keep in mind about venting Mbuna.....it's nearly impossible to tell their gender till the females have spawned at least once, so it may still be a guessing game at this point even if you vent them.
 
AquaStudent

AquaStudent

CCA Members
I'm pretty sure I'd be right about 50% of the time anyway. But a half rounds up to one right? :)

Thanks Chris.

One of the DIY projects I'd like to do this winter is build a sump for the tank. I think that would help me keep the water cleaner. If only I had a drain and a well connection then I could even set up an auto-water changer system.
 
neut

neut

Members
Regarding African cichlids, I bred Malawis for 15,16 years. Include the time I've also bred cyphotilapia and it's more like 20 years total (just Africans, not including other fish). During that time I've run the gamut of foods. Your preferences may be a little different than mine, but give them any decent food and reasonable water conditions and Malawis will just breed ime-- a general observation, doesn't mean I'm not particular what I feed-- Zaire blue fronts are more of a challenge. Live foods not needed to breed either type of fish ime, don't really feed live foods anymore but I've done it both ways with success either way.
 
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