Aquaripure nitrate filter?
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Charlutz
Members
Do you have a nitrate problem? Water changes every week or two will usually take care of it unless you've got high nitrate levels in your tap water. Most of the discussion I've seen on the topic says that water changes are beneficial to replace trace elements in the water and adding a nitrate reducing device will not eliminate the need to do the water changes. You could also try live plants.
jonclark96
Past CCA President
I agree with Charlie....
mscichlid
Founder
If you have a nitrate problem you should try to find out what is causing it to spike.
Check these factors:
Dirty filter
Dead fish
An abundance of organic matter
Over feeding
Over stocked tank
Inconsistancy of weekly water change regimen
Check these factors:
Dirty filter
Dead fish
An abundance of organic matter
Over feeding
Over stocked tank
Inconsistancy of weekly water change regimen
Tony
Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
When I was into reefing, I built a coil denitrator, but never ended up hooking it up. For reefing, having super-low nitrates is more critical because of the requirements of SPS corals, clams, anenomes, etc. Plus, water changes are less frequent since you have to mix your own water. The problem with them is that they take a long time to get working and there's always potential of them crashing and killing your system.
I've looked at the Aquaripure website before and it seems to work (quicker and more safely than the coil system), but very expensive (both startup and recharging materials iirc).
Instead of this, I've been considering building an algae turf scrubber for my 180 (or potentially daisy-chain together my bank of 10s in the fish room).
Algae Turf Scrubbers (ATS) are used widely in commercial aquariums to reduce frequency/volume of water changes. They will not eliminate the need for water changes (you still need to replace trace minerals like Charlie says), but in my opinion, would improve the overall health of the tank. (I'd still do weekly water changes, but the nitrate levels would be consistently lower)
It works by pumping water down a screen that is above the water level. The screen is lit and the water/screen is super-oxygenated so it's an idea place for algae to colonize. You need to scrape/partially remove the algae growth weekly/bi-weekly, otherwise the material on the inside will die and release nitrates back into the system. It's the equivalent to having a heavily-planted tank, without any plants. Not really practical for a non-drilled/sumpless system, unless you want to set it up above the water level of the tank.
The obvious drawbacks of this system (vs. the Aquaripure system) are the slower startup and the need for two or three items consuming electricity (pump and 1-2 lights).
Here's a picture of a basic setup:
There's a bunch of info on the web on building these things. There's actually a whole website on the subject with hundreds of pictures, trials-and-tribulations, build threads, but I can't find it right now. Here's one site were the guy has a step-by-step build of a basic model:
http://www.markstraley.com/aquarium/algae_turf_scrubber.aspx
I've looked at the Aquaripure website before and it seems to work (quicker and more safely than the coil system), but very expensive (both startup and recharging materials iirc).
Instead of this, I've been considering building an algae turf scrubber for my 180 (or potentially daisy-chain together my bank of 10s in the fish room).
Algae Turf Scrubbers (ATS) are used widely in commercial aquariums to reduce frequency/volume of water changes. They will not eliminate the need for water changes (you still need to replace trace minerals like Charlie says), but in my opinion, would improve the overall health of the tank. (I'd still do weekly water changes, but the nitrate levels would be consistently lower)
It works by pumping water down a screen that is above the water level. The screen is lit and the water/screen is super-oxygenated so it's an idea place for algae to colonize. You need to scrape/partially remove the algae growth weekly/bi-weekly, otherwise the material on the inside will die and release nitrates back into the system. It's the equivalent to having a heavily-planted tank, without any plants. Not really practical for a non-drilled/sumpless system, unless you want to set it up above the water level of the tank.
The obvious drawbacks of this system (vs. the Aquaripure system) are the slower startup and the need for two or three items consuming electricity (pump and 1-2 lights).
Here's a picture of a basic setup:
There's a bunch of info on the web on building these things. There's actually a whole website on the subject with hundreds of pictures, trials-and-tribulations, build threads, but I can't find it right now. Here's one site were the guy has a step-by-step build of a basic model:
http://www.markstraley.com/aquarium/algae_turf_scrubber.aspx
dogofwar
CCA Members
Another approach - on top of water changes - to super low nitrates is to use a chunk or two of Polyfilter in your tank. It's not re-chargeable but works well (changes color based on what it's absorbing).
South Central Cichlids, who comes to most of the fish events, sells it for I think $5 per sheet (also available elsewhere but that's who I usually buy it from).
Other approaches: use not much substrate (an amazing amount of poop gets stuck in deep gravel) and use terrestrial plants like Pothos or Peace Lilly in your tank or sump.
Matt
South Central Cichlids, who comes to most of the fish events, sells it for I think $5 per sheet (also available elsewhere but that's who I usually buy it from).
Other approaches: use not much substrate (an amazing amount of poop gets stuck in deep gravel) and use terrestrial plants like Pothos or Peace Lilly in your tank or sump.
Matt
Some good info there folks, thanks.
I'm hoping to find a way to reduce the amount of water changes, maybe get it down to about a gallon a day.
The tank is a 150, lots of plants, 7 angelfish, 6 denison barbs, two bristlenose, a couple cory cats, and is about to get a large school of Cardinal tetras.
(side note to self: get more plants that the Denison barbs won't eat, no more micro sword)
(hey, at least they're enjoying it)
I currently do about 10% a day water changes, but can't always meet the daily routine. Also my 125 is being turned into a reservior for prepared water to make sure I can do larger changes easier.
Question about the use of Pothos, how does one use it in the tank, floating, planted, what would I do to prepare it, etc.?
Never heard of using pothos in an aquarium before, sounds interesting.
Forgot to mention I run two FX5's alternating change/cleanings.
I'm hoping to find a way to reduce the amount of water changes, maybe get it down to about a gallon a day.
The tank is a 150, lots of plants, 7 angelfish, 6 denison barbs, two bristlenose, a couple cory cats, and is about to get a large school of Cardinal tetras.
(side note to self: get more plants that the Denison barbs won't eat, no more micro sword)
(hey, at least they're enjoying it)I currently do about 10% a day water changes, but can't always meet the daily routine. Also my 125 is being turned into a reservior for prepared water to make sure I can do larger changes easier.
Question about the use of Pothos, how does one use it in the tank, floating, planted, what would I do to prepare it, etc.?
Never heard of using pothos in an aquarium before, sounds interesting.
Forgot to mention I run two FX5's alternating change/cleanings.
Tony
Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
I've seen on other sites folks using it for FW setup. I believe that the initial colonization may take a bit longer, but other than that, there are no reasons (that I can think of) for it not to work just fine.
Come on, Paul? How many "proper" Malawi cichlid tanks do you know that aren't over-stocked (by conventional FW stocking standards)?
IMO, my 180 is stocked fine from a behavioral standpoint and with all the bio-material in the sump, an ammonia and nitrite-fixing standpoint, but nitrates could stand to be lower.
I think it would also greatly benefit FW rays or large new world cichlids as both of these require large tanks, tend to be very messy and can be sensitive to nitrates (specifically the rays and some eartheaters).
Tony
Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Personally, I'd only build something like that on either a very large tank or a system with multiple tanks. Too easy to change water on a smaller tank.
dogofwar
CCA Members
You're hardly overstocked with that bioload, especially running 2 FX5s.
I'd just do a 25-30% weekly water change vs. 10% daily. Way too much work to change it each day. And completely not necessary.
If you're experiencing large amounts of nitrate in a 150g with a few angels, barbs and tetras there's something else going on in there. Dirty canisters? Dirty gravel?
One of the reasons I'm not a fan of canister filters is that many (most?) folks take the perspective that if it's still running than its OK. But it can still move water and be completely full of poop. I try to clean the FX5 that's running my heavily stocked 180 (probably 5 times the bioload in your tank) about once a month of more. It's a PITA, which is why most folks don't do it for months at a time / or flow decreases to a trickle.
I keep the pothos in my tanks partially submerged (just the roots). On some tanks, I just wedge it between the glass hood and back of the tank. In others I use a ring connected to a suction cup (from a heater). Others on here purchase special hanging planters for like $15.
I'd just do a 25-30% weekly water change vs. 10% daily. Way too much work to change it each day. And completely not necessary.
If you're experiencing large amounts of nitrate in a 150g with a few angels, barbs and tetras there's something else going on in there. Dirty canisters? Dirty gravel?
One of the reasons I'm not a fan of canister filters is that many (most?) folks take the perspective that if it's still running than its OK. But it can still move water and be completely full of poop. I try to clean the FX5 that's running my heavily stocked 180 (probably 5 times the bioload in your tank) about once a month of more. It's a PITA, which is why most folks don't do it for months at a time / or flow decreases to a trickle.
I keep the pothos in my tanks partially submerged (just the roots). On some tanks, I just wedge it between the glass hood and back of the tank. In others I use a ring connected to a suction cup (from a heater). Others on here purchase special hanging planters for like $15.
Spine
Members
I agree with Matt. It sounds like one or both of your FX5's isn't functioning correctly.
Charlutz
Members
To the OP, I also agree you tank is very under stocked to have a nitrate problem especially with plants. Even with a soon to be introduced school of cardinals. What are your nitrate numbers? Are they at levels to impact fish health?
I also agree that it would be preferable to do weekly water changes. Less hassle and more effective. When you do small daily water changes you have to remove more total water to achieve the same results because you are removing a portion of 'clean' water along with the 'dirty' water. With a weekly change of 35-50% you should be fine. The denitrator would not replace the need for water changes.
I also agree that it would be preferable to do weekly water changes. Less hassle and more effective. When you do small daily water changes you have to remove more total water to achieve the same results because you are removing a portion of 'clean' water along with the 'dirty' water. With a weekly change of 35-50% you should be fine. The denitrator would not replace the need for water changes.
Tony
Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
frankoq
Members
looks like I'm resurrecting an old thread, but does anyone use the Aquaripure filter?
your thoughts about it?
your thoughts about it?
