Ich in my 150!

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Tony

Tony

Alligator Snapping Turtle/Past Pres
Dangit! I've been so careful with this tank - quarantining everything that went in and hitting it with some pretty aggressive water changes and I noticed ich on some of my S. daemon last night.

Only thing I can guess that happened is that I brought it in from another tank (where it was dormant) when I moved in some plants from the 45 over the weekend.

I raised the temperature to 83 degrees on each of the heaters. Normally, with my Africans, I'd dump a buttload of salt in the tank, but not sure it that's ok with these guys.

Here's the stocklist:

6 Acarichthys heckeli (2.5")
8 Satanoperca daemon (2.5")
30 Rummy nose tetras
10 Buenos Aires tetras
18 Marble hatchets
4 Ranger plecos (4")
2 ABN plecos (2")
3 albino cories
3 C. paleatus

So, some of the fish are a bit on the fragile side. What should I do?
 
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Plenipotentiary-at-large
89 degrees...

...kills it. Might be hard on your Corys but everything else should be fine although I can't say about the plecos. Malachite green also works like a champ. Had one instance in 2 1/2 years with Ick, was in my discus tank. Malachite green (can't remember if it was 1 or 2 doses and a temperature raise basically wiped it out almost overnight. Kept the temperature up for about a week, never came back. Ain't no thing.

And by the way, MG is really really cheap. The pet products guys hate it I'm sure which is why it's so hard to find but one bottle will treat a whole fish room.
 
YSS

YSS

Members
Usually 86 kills it too. If the outbreak is not severe, that's what I would do. No salt needed. Just crank up the temp.
 
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It can't reinfect at 86 degrees...

..and the cysts falls off the fish but to actually kill it you have to go to 88.5 according to the lab folks.
 
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The straight poop....

It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984).
 
YSS

YSS

Members
Avatar said:
It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984).
Click to expand...

Gotcha! I guess I didn't really mean to say 86 kills it. I guess 86 will eventaully get rid of ich. I understand 86 for two weeks does the trick, but sounds like 89 can be much quicker.
 
UNCLERUCKUS

UNCLERUCKUS

"THE ALL POWERFUL Q !!
Avatar said:
It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984).
Click to expand...
GOOD LOOKING OUT SAM!!!
 
B

BenM3

Members
I have had very good luck at 86 degrees and run a UV Sterlizer if you have one. I have not lost a fish to Ich using this method in a long time. An in tank Sterlizer is sufficient.
 
J

Jay

CCA Members
ICH

Tony said:
Dangit! I've been so careful with this tank - quarantining everything that went in and hitting it with some pretty aggressive water changes and I noticed ich on some of my S. daemon last night.

Only thing I can guess that happened is that I brought it in from another tank (where it was dormant) when I moved in some plants from the 45 over the weekend.

I raised the temperature to 83 degrees on each of the heaters. Normally, with my Africans, I'd dump a buttload of salt in the tank, but not sure it that's ok with these guys.

Here's the stocklist:

6 Acarichthys heckeli (2.5")
8 Satanoperca daemon (2.5")
30 Rummy nose tetras
10 Buenos Aires tetras
18 Marble hatchets
4 Ranger plecos (4")
2 ABN plecos (2")
3 albino cories
3 C. paleatus

So, some of the fish are a bit on the fragile side. What should I do?
Click to expand...

Plecos do not like salt and that might be a bad thing to do with them. Krodon makes a product call Ich Attack that is not supposed to hurt catfish and other fish of that nature. It might work for you with these fish. I found that it is less effective with African Cichlids than Quick Cure; but, Quick Cure will kill catfish, plecos, etc. Krodon also makes a similar product called ICH prevent. I use it on my in coming African Cichlid fish and it seems to work about 90% of the time. Check with a store that sells these products. I get mine from That Fish Place in Lancaster, PA. They may be able to tell you more about Krodon Ich Attack. Hopefully you can get it or some that works closer to home. My best advice, however, is do not delay or the Ich will only get worse and you may loose your fish.
Hope this helps,

Jay
 
J

Jay

CCA Members
Avatar said:
...kills it. Might be hard on your Corys but everything else should be fine although I can't say about the plecos. Malachite green also works like a champ. Had one instance in 2 1/2 years with Ick, was in my discus tank. Malachite green (can't remember if it was 1 or 2 doses and a temperature raise basically wiped it out almost overnight. Kept the temperature up for about a week, never came back. Ain't no thing.

And by the way, MG is really really cheap. The pet products guys hate it I'm sure which is why it's so hard to find but one bottle will treat a whole fish room.
Click to expand...

From what I understand Melachite Green works very well as well; but, like Quick Cure it may kill catfish and plecos. I would be careful about using it with these type fish without checking for sure it will not harm them.

Jay
 
msjinkzd

msjinkzd

invert junkie
be cautious to add extra aeration if you can at higher temps, this will help your catfish deal with the higher temps (dissolved oxygen is less in higher temps).

I always use heat and salt to treat ich, no matter the species, and have never had losses inlcuding in catfish, otocinclus, ancistrus, hypancistrus, etc
 
MHMoro

MHMoro

CCA Members
Careful with Malachite green dosing!

Although I had good results with malachite green in the past you should use 1/2 of the recomended dose if treating plecos, catfish and tetras.

Manuel
 
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Plenipotentiary-at-large
This is not complicated.

Heat. Nada mas. And aeration if you desire, although the Corydoras can breathe air as well (swallow actually so that it's absorbed through the intestine) and are probably more resilient than the plecos.
 
fischfan13

fischfan13

Banned
Avatar said:
This is not complicated.


Heat. Nada mas. And aeration if you desire, although the Corydoras can breathe air as well (swallow actually so that it's absorbed through the intestine) and are probably more resilient than the plecos.
Click to expand...

Agree with Sam.
People make this too complicated.

A gradual increase of heat.
Salt, if you prefer (I do).
Extra aeration, if you prefer. The best way, IMO, for extra aeration is to use another HOB filter and to drop the water level a bit.
 
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Love the caps...

...or I should say oversized colorized font - almost like a blessing from on high, ET, divine or otherwise.
 
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